Is your chives plant ready for seed harvest? How do you know?
Passing by them on your way to the rosemary on a gorgeous April day, the sunshine high and bright, the breeze brisk but temperate, you notice your chives plant flowers have some dark seed-looking things perched within them. The chives flowers have long since lost their bloom (a good sign you’re on your way to seed production), but now what?
“Begin by plucking” is my motto. I pluck those old buds right off the stem and head indoors. Shaking the black dots off the petals, I gather them into a pile on my counter and run a quick search of the internet for confirmation. Small black bean-shaped seeds. I look at the computer image, look at my seeds. Yep, that’s exactly what I had in my hot little hands! But they’re actually flat. At least to my aging eyes it appears that they’re flat.
Well, by golly, it’s time to march back outside and harvest the rest of them! Excited gardeners are full of energy and exuberance–we don’t wait for nuthin’! Especially when it comes to harvest. However, remember the brisk April wind I mentioned? Harvesting chives seeds is best done on days with minimal wind. Of course it is.
But fear not, enthusiastic gardener! You work quickly and meticulously snipping and collecting, depositing into your homemade seed packet. These babies are valuable! You love your chives, don’t you?
Of course you do. Label your packet and hold them until it’s time to plant chives again. If you’re planting indoors, plant chives seeds in the dark at about 60-70F. Once they sprout, move them into the light. If planting outdoors, wait until threat of frost has passed and sow in the ground. Keep in mind they prefer warm rich light soil and lots of sun. By the way, it’s helpful to know that you don’t have to wait until your chives go to seed. You can divide your plants into clumps and replant as a method of increasing the “chives love.” Just be sure that each small plant has about 10-12 buds on it.
It’s time to buy your seeds! If you haven’t been saving your seeds, that is. Now mind you, for those of you who are saving seeds, I completely understand how you could become so excited over your tomato crop and making sauce that you completely forgot to save a few ripe tomatoes for the purpose of saving seeds. Yep, you plopped them right into the boiling water for blanching without the first thought to seed-saving. It happens. It’s okay. More tomato seeds are on my list, too.
But take heart! You’re enjoying the thrill of gardening, reaping what you sow and cooking the dickens out of it. It’s understandable that you get carried away. As for my raw food fans, the concept remains the same. Chopping seeds in your Cuisinart isn’t helpful for seed saving, so slow down…take a deep breath and think before you throw the switch. 🙂 I’m just sayin’…
But there’s something very important that you must keep in mind when the seed catalogs arrive. After you eagerly run to the mailbox (or jog—as ice tends to be slippery) and pull out those gorgeous pages filled with plump ripe fruits and vegetables, a colorful array of flowers and herbs, and peruse the list of seed offerings–make sure you’re searching for heirloom seeds. Not hybrid, not super-duper-extra-sweet or double the normal growth potential… Uh, uh. You want heirloom and preferably organic. Why?
Because once you plant hybrid seeds, the ones meant to overcome Mother Nature’s deficiencies (don’t let her hear you say that out loud) and harvest the produce and save your seeds, you’ll be sorely disappointed next season. Hybrids aren’t natural and when you replant the seeds, your new crop of plants will not reproduce the original fruit — if they germinate at all. Say you plant a hybrid Better Boy variety one season—thrilled with the beasts of bounty this seed produces—then save some seeds for next season, you need to be aware that your next crop might be a disappointing array of cherry-like tomatoes. It happens. And it’s sad when it does.
So save yourself the heartache and buy heirloom. Heirloom is straight up what it promises on the label, year after year after year. Plant your seeds according to package instructions and keep moist. Think of them as babies and treat them as such. This spring I’m putting Hungarian Wax back on my list. Last season was disappointing, but this year? We’re going gangbusters!
Wish me luck! Until then…happy gardening!
One of the best ways to ensure that your corn retains the moisture it needs for good development is what I call “corn channels.” Basically, these are deep grooves formed in the soil where I then plant my corn seeds. Simple! First, my husband tills the garden with his tractor and then I follow-up with my hand tiller.
I could use the channels formed by his tractor, but then my corn plants would not be spaced as I prefer.
Corn likes to snuggle. It keeps them safe from high winds. Remember this scene?
Not a pretty day in the garden when your corn sisters have fallen over after a windy day. By planting them closely together, I’m actually protecting them from this very threat. That’s why I pack them tightly together, about 8 – 12 inches apart down the row and also from bed to bed. I place walkways every second row of corn and align my sprinklers accordingly.
I think these babies look pretty happy! Next, I’ll interplant lettuce between the corn. The two seem to work well together (remember: lettuce loves everybody when it comes to companion planting!) and will help conserve space. I’ll also be adding hay mulch once my corn becomes better established.
I have and they’re going gangbusters. Just look at those gorgeous girls!
Yes, those are vacant spots in my row. Apparently, some of the gals haven’t sprouted, yet. Seems they’re taking their sweet time to emerge from the soil. Could be the weather. Could be my watering schedule. Could simply be a matter of nature. Not everyone grows at the same rate, you know.
There’s also the possibility of “theft by animal.” A few mornings, I awoke to find deep tracks through my garden. Wild hogs, armadillos, raccoons… I’m not sure who has been visiting me, only that somebody has.
Ugh. Living with nature is a beautiful thing, up to a point. But I will turn my positive attitude cap around and look on the bright side: I can always refill my bed with new potato sprouts. Besides, wild animals have to eat too, right?
Of course they do. I simply wish they’d chomp elsewhere. Now, back to my potatoes. I’ve planted them in a nice organic mix of compost from my backyard pile (shown below) and composted cow manure and have mulched them well. Mulch provides the moisture retention potatoes need, as well as encourages them in their upward growth habit. For complete details on how-to grow potatoes, check my How-To section.
I have one bed of red potatoes and one bed of white. Different size, different flavor–variety is the spice of life! And in about 2-3 months, I’ll be reaping my first gems from the ground. Can’t wait!
My tomatoes are rockin’ and rollin’ and ready to go in ground. Woohoo ~ what a great day! (Below, the sprouts were two weeks old.)
And it’s a day I’ve been planning for, insisting the family not put their eggshells in the compost bin but instead, straight into my hot little hands. I need these babies for my tomato transplants. Eggshells and Epsom salts. Together, they are my fail proof preventative against blossom end-rot. You know, those ugly black spots that can form on your tomatoes? (Shown below, the sprouts are now 3 weeks old and ready to head outside!)
The spots are caused by a lack of calcium which is why I give my tomatoes a blast of calcium right from the start. Using discarded, dried and washed eggshells, I crumble them into small pieces and scatter around the base of my tomato plant. Next I sprinkle a bit of Epsom salts around the same and cover with compost. I’ll follow by forming a well around my tomatoes to increase their water retention.
If the weather in Central Florida remains exceptionally warm, I’ll cover my babies with a screen to block out the hot midday sun. Once they reach about a foot, I’ll remove the screen and begin dusting. Dipel dust keeps the worms off my leaves by eliminating them before they get a chance to eliminate my tomato plants. All’s fair in gardening and nature!
Wow. SO excited! For more details on growing tomatoes, check my how-to grow section located on the sidebar to the right or menu bar above.
The Poinsettia I planted from last season did not fare as well as I hoped.
The reason? I believe it has something to do with sunlight. The year before, I re-planted them in pots and kept them on the back patio, south side of the house. They weren’t kept in direct sun, mind you, but they were in a very bright location. Those I planted in ground out front of my home, full shade, no good. 🙁
So this year? You guessed it! Someplace nice and protected–they are somewhat dainty, I think–but with plenty of bright light. Which makes sense. After consulting with my “grow-guides,” I was reminded these beauties prefer indirect sunlight, protected from cool drafts. As a native of Mexico, this plant doesn’t like the cold, so whenever the temperature dips below 50-55 degrees, you must be vigilant and cover it else it shrivel up and die. More
This week the kids were taught how to pinch their plants. Their tomatoes, to be specific. (No pinching the others, or slapping that rosemary either. Kids.) We pinch our tomatoes to encourage nutrients and water to go where needed—the main stems and branches. Scraggly, overgrown and unkept tomato plants help no one, least of all the gardener looking for some ruby-red produce.
And it’s simple. The tiny branch growing in the crux there? Pinch it—a difficult task if your gloves are ultra thick, so take care, and pinch with precision. 🙂 More