Compost. What is it?
Compost is the mixture of decomposed remnants of organic matter (those with plants and animal origins) used to improve soil structure and provide nutrients. Basically, a compost pile consists of plants, lawn clippings, kitchen scraps and the like. Formed into a pile and turned occasionally, nature takes its course and the materials break down. We add compost to our garden soil because it provides nutrition for vigorous plant growth, improves soil structure by creating aeration, increases the ability of soil to retain water, moderates soil pH, and encourages microorganisms whose activities contribute to the overall health of plants.
How to make compost?
Air + Water + Carbon + Nitrogen = Compost
Like most living things, the bacteria that decompose organic matter, and the other creatures that make up the compost ecosystem, need air. We occasionally turn our compost pile to ensure good air flow throughout. These microbes also need the right amount of water; think “wrung out” sponge. If too wet or too dry, optimum conditions for bacteria activity will not be met and decomposition will be slowed or halted.
Carbon is used for energy by the microbes and comes in the form of leaves, straw, hay, sawdust, etc. These are the “browns” of composting. Microbes also need nitrogen for the proteins that makeup their tiny bodies. Matter high in nitrogen are the “greens” of composting (though not always the color green) and consist of “fresh” plants, grass clippings, kitchen scraps, and the byproduct of animals such as manure and worm castings.
What not to compost?
Diseased plants, weeds gone to seed, coal ashes, dog/cat manure, lawn clippings that may contain herbicides.
Once you’ve established a location for your compost pile, it’s important to know how much carbon versus how much nitrogen to include. Too much nitrogen and your pile will smell, because excess nitrogen converts to ammonia gas. Too much carbon and the pile breaks down to slow, because microbes need nitrogen to increase their population. The ideal is a 30:1 C/N ratio.
There are two types of composting: hot and cold.
Hot composting is accomplished more quickly and best done within a bin. Made up all at one time, it’s allowed to compost without further addition of material, although it does require frequent turning and proper moisture control. Bacteria give off heat as they digest the material. The enclosed pile will insulate the heat raising the internal temperature to 120 – 190 degrees. This attracts more bacteria whose breakdown continues more rapidly. Hot compost is good because it kills pathogens and many weed seeds.
A cold pile (70 – 90 degrees) takes longer though it manages a steady stream of material additions; perfect for the family backyard pile! Simply begin your pile with the organic material of your choice, ie. leaves, kitchen scraps, etc. and continually add to the top of the pile. Within 6 – 24 months (depending on climate conditions) the material will break down–though turning the pile will speed up this process. The bottom of the pile composts first (higher heat due to insulation) and when ready, your material will be unrecognizable from its original form.
Compost tea is fairly easy to make. Simply fill a bucket 1/3 full of finished compost from your compost pile or compost bin and 2/3 water. Well water is preferred, because city water contains unwanted chemicals. Let the mixture steep for 3-4 days, stirring once a day. Strain the mixture through a porous fabric (cheesecloth, burlap, or fine netting) into another bucket. Add the remaining solids to your garden or compost bin. Dilute the strained liquid with water so it’s the color of weak tea. A ratio of 10:1 works, water to compost liquid. Use compost tea immediately for best absorption pouring into the soil around plants.
You can also use it as a spray by adding 1/8 tsp vegetable oil or mild dish-washing liquid per gallon of compost tea to help it adhere to leaves. Much like you do with your insecticidal soap!
1. Compost piles stink.
Sure, if you put things in that shouldn’t be in a compost pile, like meat, dairy items or cooking oils. If you put kitchen scraps in, then cover them with raked-up leaves, you’ll have nothing but the smell of Mother Earth. Aaaahhhh…
2. I need a big backyard.
You simply need a “spot” outside to place your compost pile, or a commercially-made compost bin, like the one shown above. You can also opt for vermicomposting (worm composting).This setup, shown below, can fit on any apartment patio or balcony.
3. Composting is too complicated.
Not really. You only need to know two concepts: greens and browns. Greens are your kitchen scrap items and browns are your dead leaves, mulch, hay, etc. Don’t let those perfectionist-types deter you. Overlap green-brown-green-brown and you’re done. If you don’t get rain, occasionally douse your pile with water. Easy! It’s how my pile works and I’ve been composting for years.
4. Compost piles attract rodents and pests.
Only if you place meat, fried foods or sweets in your compost pile. These aren’t great additions and can attract unwanted visitors. If you do add items like leftover pie and cake (who has this stuff leftover?), simply bury them deep into your pile, or cover them with a fresh layer of yard waste. I do and it works. No animals, other than my curious dog, that is.
5. I don’t have time to compost.
Either way, you have to toss those kitchen scraps out. Why not opt for a compost pile/bin instead of the garbage can? Grass clippings and raked leaves can be added weekly. And besides, it’s not like you have to stand watch over your compost pile. That’s Mother Nature’s job!
Now grab that food waste and get started. It’s easier than you think!